Bon Odori 2025
by Mikey Kirkpatrick (flute)
Photo by Anjė Kanapientyė
Photo by Mikey Kirkpatrick
I can see my house from the plane, in the ochre wake of the setting sun. The two reservoirs where I jogged this the morning flash back up at me; sky-facing eyes that I trace daily along their tree-lined eyebrows and tear-duct streams with my feet. I trace the route with my eyes to Epping Forest, a run I have been planning by looking at maps. We are heading North from London City Airport towards Vilnius, Lithuania, for the second year in a row, to perform at the now annual Bon Odori festival. I’m sat next to Aki, the other half of my Taiko and Flute Duo Zashiki Warashi. He is quietly playing his Shinobue in the darkness of the night flight, the bamboo flute that he plays everyday, learning from scratch since a couple of months ago, with a photocopied handbook in Japanese complete with pictures. We talked about flute playing, resonance, standing waves and Ancient Greek ‘Echeia’ acoustic jars made from clay. Our voices and flute sounds roll alongside the engines of the plane, while our ears pop among the clouds as we sip airline coffee (me) and tea (Aki).
At Vilnius airport we are greeted by the very cool Augis, the Lithuanian partner of Ayano, a dancer and choreographer who is the reason why the Bon Odori Festival began in Vilnius in 2024. Augis drives us to the farm where they live with their daughter Lilija and Arija, their dog. Arija meets our car in the midnight fog and accompanies it safely into its place beneath the stars. Augis built the house from scratch and, when he has time between being a father and touring his theatre shows (he is a Bunraku puppeteer and director, among other things), he installs the newest ‘updates’ to the house, the most recent being some beautiful tiles in the entrance hall where we left our shoes before settling in for Japanese tea and Lithuanian poppy seed cake. We caught up on a year’s worth of stories and they let us hold the new born chicks that came as a surprise to them a couple of weeks ago.
Photo by Mikey Kirkpatrick
After a short sleep I took to the forest paths to tread a new route into my running feet, heading towards a place called Liubavas, a very old royal estate with a watermill and a sculpture of an angel. The sun rising through the low-lingering fog was stunning. I took countless photographs, although every time I stopped in amazement of the light mosquitos gathered all over my legs and started their breakfast, so I was inspired to keep moving. Giant snails, ant hills and flocks of birds lined the way, accompanied with the chirps of grasshoppers in the air. I was lucky enough to glimpse a wild deer, too.
Photo by Mikey Kirkpatrick
Coffee, scrambled eggs and home-grown shiitake mushrooms prepared us for a morning of rehearsals outdoors. My shinobue got the forest whispering, at least that’s how it felt as its sound pinballed for miles around. Aki’s small shime drum literally shook the branches of the trees. Woodland neighbours phoned to say they were enjoying our rehearsals from kilometres away. Arija tried her best to get a hold of my bamboo shinobue as it looked like an excellent stick or bone to play with. At one point, while improvising with flute and voice together, I played an open fifth harmony and she ran over to lick my face. It is known as one of the most holy of intervals, and perhaps she felt it. That, or I sounded like a bumblebee. We also filmed an improvisation, thanks to some help from the multi-talented Augis, which we will share soon. Our visit ended too quickly - soon we were in the car and on our way to the city to start our preparations, snacking on homemade Onigiri.
Photo by Mikey Kirkpatrick
The Bon Odori festival takes place outside the ‘House of Histories’ museum that celebrates and archives Lithuanian culture and traditions. Augis told us last year that his parents had been in the human chain that stood against the Russian tanks as they tried to return to claim Lithuania, and the resistance won. In 1990, Lithuania declared independence and this was key to the triggering of the dissolution of the Soviet Union. Augis trained as a carpenter, which I expect where his ability to build a house is rooted. Ayano told us how inspiring it is has been for her that Lithuanians have the mentality of doing everything themselves- they are very skilled in working with matter of all kinds. This must come from such a challenging time of endurance, loss and resistance.
Bon Odori is a traditional Japanese festival about opening a portal to the other side, not unlike the day of the dead in Mexico. It is a chance to commune with those we have passed, and those beyond our living memory- our ancestors. In Japan, people gather to circle dance with live music for hours. Ayano has brought this tradition to Lithuania, and it really works. Over 3000 people came for the festival, and many participated in the dance. There is also a similar tradition in Lithuania when people go to light candles in the graveyards, and the traditional Lithuanian dances involve a lot of circles, too. There is clearly a love for Japanese culture in Lithuania too- people dressed in kimonos, enjoyed Japanese food, got involved in martial arts, played Mahjong, and bought lots of Japanese objects and art.
I explored the market stalls before our performance and found the incredible work of Indré, who is also one of the festival organisers. She studied in Japan and makes beautiful paintings on various media, including wood. You can find her work here.
Photo by Anjė Kanapientyė
For our concert, we performed a version of our show The Rainmaker. We began by weaving through the crowd and onto the stage, singing the opening of our song Wagaya. Pavel, the sound engineer who has his own Sound System (as in Jamaican Sound System and does a lot of street events in Vilnius and keeps the fire burning for the Lithuanian Sound System culture and community) was following our sound with care every step of the way.
Photo by Anjė Kanapientyė
Photo by Anjė Kanapientyė
Photo by Anjė Kanapientyė
A couple of hours later we were on stage for the Bon Dance. Hundreds of people gathered, and as many as the space would allow for learnt each dance with Ayano demonstrating from the stage. Then, we were off. As well as Bon Dance music, we also performed and danced to Ratiliondo, the piece we composed especially for this festival, inspired by Bon Dance and Lithuanian traditional music. During the event, we recorded the crowd shouting out “Ratilio!”, so we can include everyone’s voice on the recording. ‘Ratilio’ is an old Lithuanian word meaning ‘circle’ (this version will be available online shortly). We finished the circle dancing with a ritual; the lighting of 66 candles to open a doorway between worlds. It was beautiful to accompany this with flute and drum; I had shivers down my spine. There was a clear change in the quality of the air.
Photo by Simona Kindury.
The following morning, Aki delivered a boiled egg to my hotel room, and I gave him my last tea bag. We packed and headed out to explore the Vilnius Days Festival markets. Among the beautiful amber, metal, bone and wooden objects, tools and sculptures, there were a lot of people working with ceramics. I’m particularly interested in ceramics, especially after having done a beginners course this year and made my first bowl, puppet head and small flute. I found an artist at the market called Beatrice Keleriene whose work had a very special feeling about it. She is also inspired by Japanese culture; she visited Japan and studied the slow firing techniques using an anagama kiln that uses ash as a glaze, and I bought a model of a house from her that was made with this method. She couldn’t come to our concert as she was minding her stall, so I performed an improvisation for her and her work on the street.
After lunch next to a traditional Lithuanian dance performance, we headed towards the airport, but not before Ayano had showed us the Japanese Garden just behind the House of Histories. It has a cherry tree and a river of stones, an incredibly peaceful space to step outside of time. After our goodbyes we were sat on the plane again listening back to the recordings from the weekend. Aki pulled out a twin banana that Ayano had given him over the weekend: two bananas joined together inside the same skin. Aki, who has twin boys, couldn’t believe the chance of it!
Photo by Mikey Kirkpatrick
When you’re learning an instrument, you don’t necessarily think about where it might take you, and who you might meet, both in your imagination and out in the world. So play, and see what adventures unfold before you. You might just meet yourself on that path too.
Thank you to everyone at the Bon Odori festival. We hope to see you again next year!
Photo by Anjė Kanapientyė